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Coral Needs Expand / Collapse
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Posted 2/13/2008 1:02:30 PM


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I don't actually feed my corals anything. All my corals get what they need from the zooxanthlae producing nutrients. Adding things like phytoplankton and others only seems to increase algae. My corals are thriving. They are doing extremely well in the tank. At each water change I do add Iodine, Calcium and Strontium & Molybendium.

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Post #140207
Posted 3/7/2008 8:28:35 PM
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Hey folks,

I use a simplified method to keep trace elements at proportionate levels that doesn't require massive testing (most hobby level test kits aren't real accurate to start with). Frequent water changes. Instead of a 20% change monthly, I change a small amount weekly which adds up to about a 30% change monthly. Since our salt mixes are supposed to be balanced with all necessary major and trace minerals, a water change replenishes elements without need to worry about overdosing or whether all elements were covered. (I do dose with kalkwasser daily to replace evaporated water and calcium to be honest, but no expensive bottled elixers.)

So many species, so little money!

Post #142939
Posted 6/10/2008 4:02:18 PM


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Damn this has gotten some hits.  Since my last post I've learned quite a few.  I rarely use this site though.  Lets just point out that there's different needs for different corals but they can be placed in a two gerenal catergories: softies and stonies.  Its best not to mix these to types in a tank although some LSP (opposed to SPS) can be put in with softies such as brain and plate coral.

Starting with Softies:  they wage chemical warfare on each other to compete for space.  Protein skimmer is a must.  Secondly, dependant upon depth, use PC or T5s, MC are not nessasary.  Keep light all ur tank's light (not lunar) on for 12hrs unless you have a good reason not to.  Addivities...not much.  Use idodine once in a which but never overdose(which is hard to measrue accurately).  Idodine is more important to softies then stonies and has to do with ridding their waste.  Idodine can also help other inverberts in ur tank and suppositly brings out LR color(w/e).  In smaller tanks (under 45) the best method to replace trace elements in through small 10% water changes at least once a week.  Usually best not to dose (leads to easy overdose) in smaller tanks but is need in 55G and up.  Softies don't calcium up as fast as stonies but keep an eye out.  Always have a test kit and test regularly.  Keep Ca+ around 400ppm.  Softies tend to be easier to care for a grow faster, good for beginners.  BTW I excluded the fact of have to hand feed some larger specimens.  Feeding not nessasary if the tank is aged (best to have refugium for phytoplankyon)

[f I'm missing anything (theses are the basics) let me know]

Stonies...

Please Ignore- "Why else would I stick my hand into the pirhana tank...it was dirty and needed a SCRUB DOWN!"

Post #149051
Posted 6/10/2008 4:12:52 PM


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OMG I'm tired.  props to KDodds

Lighting: MH or Overdrive HO/VHO T5s (depth dependant)

Chems.: Calcium and Kelkwasser (use Mrs Wages pickling lime); with these use a DIY drip system or reactor, w/e you feel like.

You can also do small water changes for trace elements.

Protein skimmer b/c they produce large amounts of mucus

Current, water flow, 10x tank volume per hr (not including protein skimmer)

-btw-Water current is a huge part in both types of corals, some just like it more than others and that depends on the indivual coral.

Feed large corals and best to have refugium for feeding.

Above... Amazing water quality,  Don't mess up, leave it go, then think everything is goin to be alright. 

P.S. add to this b/c I'm pretty sure I missed stuff, especial with the stonies

Please Ignore- "Why else would I stick my hand into the pirhana tank...it was dirty and needed a SCRUB DOWN!"

Post #149052
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