| We'll need just a bit more info to give you the best advice. What does the "TH" stand for? Total hardness? That's just a guess, so I'd really appreciate clarification on that - don't want to tell you the wrong thing by accident. How many gallons is your tank? What plants do you have? Every plant's different and they all have different needs. Also, is the sucker a common plecostomus or some other critter? Lots of bottom-feeders go by the name "sucker," and some are great tank additions while others just won't do in typical tanks. Also, what's the "dragon?" If you don't know offhand, you do a Google image search to find the right fish and then link us to the page. Now, about the tank values. You need to have no nitrite (NO2) in your tank - you don't even want that little color strip to react at all. Having nitrites in the tank signals that cycling isn't complete or the tank is overstocked. As to nitrate, it's not nearly as toxic, but you want to keep it at a minimum. Less than 20 ppm is ideal, and if it's too high, you have several options. First and foremost, up the water change schedule because this removes nitrates from the water. Also, reduce the number of fish and the amount you're feeding - both those factors contribute to high nitrates. pH - what is your pH level? Unless it's extremely high or extremely low, don't try to mess with it. These days, most fish in the hobby are quite capable of adjusting to various pH levels. I mean, neon tetras originally come from waters with a pH below 6.8. Mine live just fine at a pH of 7.4. So if folks tell you that you absolutely have to have this pH value for this fish, and that pH value for that fish, don't take it to heart immediately. There are exceptions but for the most part, fiddling with pH causes more harm than good. You really shouldn't have any salt in the tank. In some situations, adding salt is acceptable, such as when treating some parasites or when housing brackish-water fish. But for the most part, you don't need to put any salt into the tank, so the number for that should be 0. Alkalinity is your tank's buffering capacity. A high alkalinity (also known as carbonate hardness or KH) prevents drastic swings in pH, which can harm fish. A low KH can allow the pH to fluctuate, which causes severe stress and even death in aquaria. A value of 120-180 parts per million is regarded as normal on my test strips. Below 40, you're run the risk of pH swings. This can be alleviated by adding crushed cuttlebone, coral, or oyster shells to the tank, which will raise the KH over time. Hmm...as to the plants, if you're getting a lot of plant death then something needs to change about the setup. Some loss of leaves after introduction is normal, and plants do occasionally shed their leaves as they grow new ones. But too much death means that something is wrong - they might not be getting enough light, or enough nutrients. That's why I asked what types of plants you have. If there's an issue with the setup, we'll be able to let you know from that. With that said, most fish aren't going to touch dead plant matter. If it's unsightly, it would be much better to snip it out with scissors and remove by hand or by net. Too many decaying plants are bad for the tank and can lead to high levels of nitrates and other pollutants. Large snails should not eat your plants. The apple snails typically marketed in pet stores (also known as mystery snails) are scavengers, not straight-up herbivores. Usually, they only go after live plants if they are starving. They should always be provided with an outside food source and a source of calcium, and in addition they will scavenge uneaten food and some algae from your tank. Hope that was helpful. I look forward to answering any other questions that you might have. 
In the Mountains Of the Mountains For the Mountains
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