FishChannel Forums / Freshwater Forums / A Place for Beginners

What fish can I put in a 5 gallon tank?

Chelsey — Tue, 20 Jul 2010 07:34:34 GMT

I want to get my sister a couple of fish for her 5 gallon tank. There is nothing in it currently. I'm thinking about killifish (Aphyosemion Striatum) but really anything besides bettas and guppies would be fine.

Also if I can keep for EXAMPLE: If I can keep 1 tetra and 2 guppys or if I can keep 3 female bettas and 2 female guppys. (I know a lot about guppys and bettas because I have both of them which is why she doesn't want guppys or bettas) Thanks!

Your New Aquarium

David Lass — Sun, 12 Oct 2008 09:04:24 GMT

We have had a number of threads here on FC.com about "cycling" a new fish tank, and I thought I would post my current thinking, in the hope that you guys will chip in with your thoughts. Sorry it is such a long post -- but this stuff is really important.

Cycling a fish tank has nothing to do with a two wheeled vehicle; it also does not mean to simply let the tank run with water for a week or two. Cycling refers to getting the Nitrogen Cycle established in a tank. The Nitrogen Cycle is what makes it possible for us to keep fish in glass boxes which are, essentially, their own toilets. The Nitrogen Cycle starts with ammonia, which is the result of fish metabolism, dead plants, etc. and which is very harmful to fish; a certain set of bacteria convert the ammonia into nitrite. Nitrite is also pretty harmful to fish, and a second group of bacteria convert nitrite into nitrates. Nitrates are much less harmful to fish, and nitrates can be removed by having lots of live plants, or doing frequent regular water changes. There are also just coming into the hobby a number of products, both as additives and entire filtration systems, that will house the group of bacteria (which need a low oxygen environment = anoxic or anaerobic) that convert nitrates into harmless nitrogen gas. This last stage of the Nitrogen Cycle works very much the same way that live rock works in a Berlin style marine tank. The technology is coming to the tropical fish hobby/industry from the commercial aquaculture of food fish industry -- and it is now possible to complete the cycle without doing weekly or regular water changes.

The requirements for the Nitrogen Cycle to get going in a fish tank are 1) the bacteria -- they can be allowed to build from the population in any tank, or they can be "seeded" by adding gravel, plants or filter stuff from an established tank into the new tank, or from any of the liquids or powders available as tank starters at your lfs. 2) The bacteria need a place to live -- which is usually part of the filtration system of the tank, although the bacteria actually live on every surface of the aquarium. 3) They need food -- in terms of ammonia to start with, then the nitrite that is the product of converting the ammonia -- the food can be in the form of adding ammonia directly, or from the fish.

It is very important to understand that without all three components -- the bacteria themselves, places for them to live, and food for them -- the Nitrogen Cycle will never become correctly established in a tank. There are many ways to get the Cycle started in a new tank. One is fishless cycling which involves adding ammonia (or letting some cocktail shrimp decompose) to the tank in enough concentration and over time for the bacteria of the NC to get going. The problem with fishless cycling is that most folks do not want to look at an empty tank for 4 -- 6 weeks while they feed ammonia to the bugs, or watch a few shrimp decompose. You can also get the NC going by adding something to "seed" it from a healthy existing tank. This can be a sponge filter, plants, gravel or filter medium. In my experience what works best, especially for new hobbyists with their first tank, is to use Nitrogen Cycle starter products from the lfs. These can be in the form of liquids with millions of live bacteria, or dry powders with suspended bacteria and food to get them started.

I have tested all of the methods for starting the Nitrogen Cycle in a new tank, and in my experience what works best is to start the new tank with bacteria either in liquid or dry form (and to add any "seeds" you can get), and to slowly add fish to the tank over a 4 -- 6 week period. You should absolutely buy your own testers for testing "The Big Four" -- pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. The test strips work just fine, and they are the best investment (other than a good book) that newbies can make in their aquarium hobby. LFS's like to encourage folks to bring in water for them to test, which is fine -- except that the Nitrogen Cycle and how it works is so critical to understand that it is really important that you do the testing yourself -- don't just rely on your lfs telling you that things are "ok". You need to have the numbers for "The Big Four", and to keep track of them in a log, as the direction/trend of any tank parameter is much more important than the absolute number -- unless the numbers are so high as to really threaten the health of the fish.

Bottom line, for me -- buy some test strips to test ammonia, nitrite, nitrates and pH -- add some "starters" either from the lfs or from existing healthy tanks -- add the fish over a 4 -- 6 week period -- test "The Big Four" each time before you add new fish, and keep a log -- don't rush things, and most important --- LEARN ABOUT FISHKEEPING AND HAVE FUN!

To cover or not to cover

robert958 — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 22:51:43 GMT

I have upgraded my tank from a mini tank to a 30g tank and from a internat mini filter to a canister filter. I have a problem and it has been a dilemma for me to have a cover or not to cover my tank. Infact, the water is evaporating fast. I also have a fan blowing the water surface to lower down the water temperature. ANother question is for a 30g tank would be wise to change once a week or 2 week once?

Water Question

fishy33 — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 08:29:17 GMT

I'm considering getting an aquarium, so I decided to read up on fish a bit. However, I was confused when I reached a point about the different types of water. The book I was reading said that were three types of water: coldwater, tropical, and tropical marine. Apparently, the different kinds of fish that live in those waters can't be intermingled. Does that mean that I couldn't combine a goldfish with a tetra?

Thanks in advance!

Green Cloudy water

acpryor — Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:54:35 GMT

For the past week I haven't had clear water. It appears my fish are fine. I have quite a few plants, some rock etc... The tank is 125gal... Water test looks decent but I plan to test again this evening...

Wondering what you all might suggest to try to fix it? I was thinking of replacing abotu 20% of the water, and keeping the lights off for a few days til it sorts itself out.

Good idea? Bad idea? Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

I need help

shark998 — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 14:46:05 GMT

Hello I'm new to the hobby and am just wondering if my 10 gallon tank is a good place to start I'm not sure on what fish i could learn with that will help me move on in to the hobby deeper thanks

gold fish tank mates

Sam fish — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:52:04 GMT

can all goldfish (common& fanncy) live together?

molly fry

Sam fish — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 14:34:20 GMT

My Molly had fry .They were unexpected and I only was able to save 4 of them I know what to feed them. but how often not shur how old they are eather 1is gold &black 1 black 1black&white Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Advice on water testing

blueman67 — Sun, 18 Apr 2010 12:07:44 GMT

I'm new to the fish keeping hobby. I've been in it for about a month. I didn't do any research before buying my first fish; I just jumped in with both feet. But, that's just me....that's how approach any new hobby or interest. Fortunately, my introduction to the hobby has gone fairly well. I'm discovering the importance of keeping a watch on water quality and would like any advice on how to test the water...test kits vs. monitors, when to test, etc.

Also, any advice on what products are best for treating the water for optimum quality would be appreciated as well. Thanks.

Jim

Tank Backgrounds

acpryor — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 12:17:53 GMT

I don't think I want to use a print of any kind, so I were to paint the background of my tank, what's the preferred colors? I'm thinking a blue or black. Painting is a commitment. Any advice is a appreciated.

Heater for 125 gal

acpryor — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 07:28:01 GMT

The the fish store guy recommended to me (what's the acronym you all use around here for the local fish stop folks) is not getting the heat where it needs to be. I think it's a 300w heater (maybe, I'll check when I get home) and it's I keep cranking it up but it can't get the water warmer than 75. So.. I'm taking it back.. but what do I replace it with? I'm thinking I probably need (2) 200 or 300 watt heaters, set a tad lower so that together they keep the water at 78 or thereabouts.

Thoughts?

Lethargic Black Moor

blueman67 — Sun, 18 Apr 2010 12:22:14 GMT

I have two Black Moors and one is acting unusually lethargic. It's always liked to hide while the other Moor would swim with the other fish. I've noticed the lethargic one lying on the bottom of the tank from time to time, as if it's resting. But, today, rather than retiring to it's "cave" it has been lying around, in the open, on the gravel. I'll occasionally use the net or my hand to reach in and gently coax it to move. When it does move it seems to move around ok, although maybe not as energeticly as the other one. I'll hate to see it die, if that is the case, but I won't be surprised since it's always acted a little bizarre...when compared to the other Moor....from day one. Can anyone tell me if it is dying or is this just the way these fish behave from time to time, or what? And is there anything I can do to revive it? Thanks!

Jim

Is this good enough?

2884 — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 20:10:02 GMT

hi im new to this forum and i just got the tank, and 4 angel fish literally 10 minutes ago and i saw the tube thing kept sucking in the fish, is that a bad thing? and the tank seems empty so what do i need to add to improve the environment? here is a picture of it

Some Questions

Catinca — Wed, 12 May 2010 15:34:10 GMT

I have a few questions:

-How often is too often to change the water of a 38-gallon tank? I already change it once a week, but my plecos poop so much that sometimes the gravel gets spots of poo on it. Can I do water changes twice a week or every 4-5 days without any problems?

-This may be a silly question, but I have to ask anyway. Is there a way to tell the age of a fish? My tank and fish came to me together, and the guy I got them from didn't give me any ages. I'm just curious if I should be prepared for any of them to die anytime soon due to age-related issues.

Thanks!

Choosing Saltwater Fish

B Man — Wed, 30 Jun 2010 13:20:29 GMT

I was wondering which two choices are better? 1 yellow tang 2 false clowns some chromis and a watchman goby and a pistol shrimp pair. Now for the second choice 1 tang two false clowns one or 2 firefish and some chromis.

Newbie with Questions

acpryor — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 11:53:43 GMT

Greetings.

I've been doing my research and have pretty much finalized my list on what I plan to get. I'm going with a 125gal tank, fluval fx5 filter, Coralife Lunar Aqua Light, flourite as a substrate, some live plants, etc. Its being delivered next Friday and I'm pretty psyched about it, I had tanks (10gal and 20gal) as a kid and my wife finally gave me the go-ahead for this new setup (it's taken awhile). So, I want to make sure I do things correctly.

A couple of things though came to mind:

1) The sales guy at the pet store said I don't need a lid and that if I had a lid, the lighting wouldn't penetrate properly and would probably kill my plants. I have a large cat that would love it if I didn't have a lid so a lid would be preferable. Any truth to what the salesman said? And if so, are there screens that would work instead?

2) Would floating plants kill the UV for the other plants (see point #1)?

3) To get a 3-5" substrate for my plants (in a 125 gal tank), roughly how many pounds of flourite would I need? Salesperson suggested 200.

4) What kind of water test kit should I get (to check ph, ammonia, etc)?

Any other suggestions for me? I read the post about cycling and I suppose that's the most challenging part.

Thanks so much. Glad to be back in the underwater fish world.

Annoying Green Water

robert958 — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 19:18:10 GMT

Any one could advice me about green water. Is not that bad but i can see green water forming due to green algea blooming. But I have treated it with PondCare® AlgaeFix® yesterday. Before the treatment I have stop the lighting and also less feeding. This weekend I will change the water.

BY the way, I am using filtered water for my fish tank and I did put some water conditioner (chlorinates remover). What other treatment should I put in? What is the best practise? Do you treat the water in the 3.6L bucket each time pouring in the tank or pour all the water in the tank then treat it?

Help with my annoying problem

FishT — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 18:58:47 GMT

i have been dealing with this annoying bacterail bloom for about a month and a half im so sick of it i want to know what i can do other than feeding less plz this is so annoying!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

quaratine thank

Sam fish — Wed, 12 May 2010 13:55:32 GMT

just wondering who had one and is it needed

I've got a few questions about a new tank

lonewolf — Wed, 31 Mar 2010 09:18:37 GMT

Being a new fish keeper, I have several questions I could use some help with. Before you ask, I did NOT pre-cycle the tank before the fish. I wish I could have, but I couldn't at the time. I was given the gold fish before I got the tank and the poor guy was stuck in a bowl.

1. My 120 gallon tank is using a Rena XP4 filter (very nice one btw) and it came with Bio-Chem Zorb (http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.j ... cs#prodTab). During my water testing with which I've had the tank running for 2 weeks now, I have had 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 0 nitrates. For most of this time, I've only had 1 gold fish and 3 zebra danios and I know thats very little bioload, but shouldn't that at least put some levels of the chemicals in there or is that Bio-Chem Zorb pretty much taking care of that? I'm guessing the absorber is doing just that. So now I'm a little worried that I'm not getting my proper bacterial growth because of this. I've heard the absorbs really slow down the growth, but is it to the stopping point?

I've also been using Stress Zyme (http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.j ... Id=3295908), following the directions to a T. Now that puts bacteria in it, so will that also help the bacteria problem?

2. Somewhat related to the above, I was told that it was okay to add tap water directly into the tank BEFORE I condition it as long as I put the conditioner, which was Stress Coat in this case, in to the tank first for the amount of water I'm adding. Is this okay to do? In other words, put the conditioner into the tank then add the tap water straight into the tank.

3. Regarding shy fish, I just got two gouramis, both very very timid to the point that when I walk into the room, they shoot straight for cover and hide until I'm gone. I also recently aquired a pristine Featherfin Catfish, who was not so shy in the store but is now just as timid as the gouramis. Is there a way I can bring the shyness out of these guys? Or is that something that eventually just happens?

4. Also somewhat related to above, the Featherfin Cat is nocturnal. I've read something about being able to change that and acclimate them somewhat to come out during the day rather than nighttime exclusively but can't remember the details about it. Anyone know of a way to do this?

Thanks for taking a look at this rather wordy question dialogue (sorry about that) and would greatly appreciate any 2 cents you can put in.

Switching Tanks

Catinca — Wed, 21 Apr 2010 19:35:27 GMT

I may be switching to a bigger tank for my current fish, and was hoping to get some suggestions as to how to do this. They are currently in a 38 gallon tank, but I'm hoping to be getting a 60 gallon this weekend. I probably need to do the switch all at once, but I don't want to have a problem with any kind of cycling issue. If I move over my decorations, filter, and most of the water (plus whatever water I have to add to get up to 60 gallons), will I have a problem with this? I've grown very attached to my fish, and don't want to put them in danger by moving them. However, I really do need to move them to a different tank if it's possible.

Office Tank

FishKeeper89 — Wed, 05 May 2010 20:04:24 GMT

I'd like to add a fish bowl to my desk at the office. I'm considering a unit that will hold about a gallon and an half of water, a plant or two, and a betta. I've worked out a way to feed my fish over the weekends and have a general cleaning schedule in mind. Is there anything else that I should be considering as I launch into this new endeavour?

tank mates

Sam fish — Fri, 09 Apr 2010 18:13:57 GMT

can gold gouramis and dwarf live ok with neons

breeding tank

Sam fish — Fri, 23 Apr 2010 14:53:09 GMT

so when i upgraded to my 29 i "shut down" my 10-gallon and i would like to restart it as a breeder tank when i shut it down it had ich and it has been sitting empty since christmas i was wondering what type of live plants would be best i am wanting to breed livebreeters so i want lots of plants i also read that if you put in the green contanors you put strawbearys in up sidedown then the fri will go in there and hide

Guppy fry

FishT — Sat, 17 Apr 2010 06:18:57 GMT

i have just joined this awesome website and as i was joining i happened to look over and see my guppy giving birth again so i thought what a great way to introduce myself and my tank hahahahhahah tell me about your fry and how you take care of them any info would be helpfull as i am new to the fish keeping world thank you

Am I done Cycling yet?!??

Tullstone — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 11:53:33 GMT

Hey all, Ive had my tank running for about 3-4 weeks now.

Every other day, I've been adding bacteria cultures.

Today, I tested my Big 4.

Ph: 7
Ammonia: > .25ppm - hardly over .06
Nitrate: > 0.5ppm - hardly over 0
Nitrite: 5.0 ppm

Seeing how every other level else was low - non existent, I decided to do my first water change in weeks. I noticed I was picking up some bacteria, but felt that I really needed to do something about my high nitrite levels befre they became a problem:

33% water change
checked levels about 30 minutes after. 5.0 ppm nitrites.

Decided to add an extra dose of Prime conditioner to insure lowering my levels.

So, My question is:

Did I do the right thing? I feel that my low ammonia, nitrate, and ph levels are the sign of a cycled tank. Nitrite is the only toxin that can't be consumed by the cycle, and that's why my levels were high, right?

LEAKING HURRY PLEASE HELP!!

Mo — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 16:58:56 GMT

Okay so the new tank has these pvc fittings that screw into the tank to fit the rest of the overflow set up, but then it has these rubber things that help a plastic clear hose attach for a better tight fit....well the pvc fitting that screws into the fish tank is leaking..and I've tried to tighten it, and I've also tried some pvc glue to seal it but no matter what I do it still leaks...any suggestions as to what the problem might be?

What type of filter insert should I buy

Mo — Thu, 01 Apr 2010 22:05:13 GMT

I just bought a new 135 gallon fish tank from a guy off Craigslist and he admitted that he really didnt know about fish, and just got the tank from a friend of his so he's not sure how everything works.

Well its a home made tank, and I know it hold water because it was full and with fish when I got to his home. Anyways to the point, it's a drilled tank and the sump for it is even home made. The guy also admitted to not cleaning it in over a year and god does it show.

So I dumped everything that was in the sump out and need to buy new sump filter stuff (dunno what its called) to go inside it. Before it had a big layer of these little black balls, and then on top of that was this spong looking thing.. My question is what are those called so that I can go buy new ones to put in??

nitrite

Sam fish — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 14:42:23 GMT

how do I quickly lower my nitrite levels in a 29 gallon?

New Aquarists, This One is Yours!

math-only aquarium — Fri, 07 Aug 2009 19:55:57 GMT

Hello,

After viewing one of the following files (same file, different formats), I would like to know if new/experienced aquarists find this thing at all helpful. If it does work out, it will probably replace FishsheetA5 and become my new stocking guideline.

FishsheetA6: http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=13c94a824692277e1686155677bb26857f990eee914e79fb

Thoughts, concerns, questions?

MOA

water clarity

emt1971 — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 09:27:48 GMT

Back in january I placed a piece of driftwood in my 10gal tank. And ever since then I cant seem to keep the water from turning a brownish yellow color. This is the first time that i've ever had driftwood in a tank and I could use some advice. Thanks.

Tankmates for new tank

AquariumBrandon — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 10:03:33 GMT

Hi, I know a little about fish, and what not but it's been a few years since I've done anything. I've done a lot with oscars, and community fish..

But I just got a good deal on a 55 gallon (smaller compared to my older 150 gallon) but, it was a great deal.

I've never delt much with cichlids so any help would be appreciated.

Here is what I will have in the new tank to start with:

3 yellow labs -> http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/l_caeruleus.php
1 cherry red -> http://www.aquariumlife.net/profiles/cichlidae/red-zebra/100019.asp
1 or two blue cobalts -> http://www.tropicalfishandaquariums.com/AfricanCichlids/CobaltBlue.asp
1 kenyi -> http://www.aquariumlife.net/profiles/african-cichlids/kenyi/100002.asp
2 mbuna -> http://www.malawicichlidhomepage.com/aquarium/mbuna_auratus.html

Are there any other recommended tank mates?

What do you think about Leaf-fish, Tiger Barbs, Corycats?

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Brandon

Water Change Spreadsheet

math-only aquarium — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 18:12:18 GMT

hello,

This is a follow-up to my concejtures about water changes in general. I have made a spreadsheet that allows users to test several water-change scenarios based on their current data. Also, it allows users with contaminated water sources to see how beneficial/nonbeneficial particular water change schedules are. Moreover, this spreadsheet was inspired by TheAquaTools.com and is meant to be a general tool as well. Unlike many of my recent spreadsheets, it is an Excel 97-03 file and thus should be read by most programs.

http://sites.google.com/site/moashowmanyfish/why-are-water-changes-necessary/water-change-calculator

Please tell me what ya think,

MOA

Emerald Cory babies

Catfishes24 — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 04:32:14 GMT

Hi. I have had a 55 gal. for 6 years, and although I have kept Ryukins and plecos, I am currently caring for 2 Emerald Cory adults - and a whole lot of fry! I found babies in the tank yesterday when I was prepping to vacuum the gravel. Of course, I stopped immediately. I switched to the shorter Emperor filter tubes in hopes to keep them safe, and didn't do any cleaning of the gravel. There are several of the fry darting from under the lone moss ball in the tank, and the rest frolic around the various live plants.

I have never had fish reproduce in my care before, so help, please! Do I just leave the babies loose in the tank? What food is best for the fry? Optimal water temperature? Can I still feed my plants, or hold off on that for a while? I want to be a good "godmother" to my fish babies!

Thank you!

Light goes off

linxdev — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 14:43:55 GMT

The hood I installed on my 20L in July is randomly going off then on. It does not stay off. The bulb will go dark then immediately light. Is this my bulb or something else I can fix?

Chris

Why Water Changes: The Long Answer

math-only aquarium — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 22:24:59 GMT

Hello,

I build stocking spreadsheets in my spare time and one accusation I often hear from the people who use my spreadsheets is that it is unfair to base how many fish a person can keep based on their cleaning frequency and the amount removed. I have heard this argument for many years and finally decided to answer it in some detail:

http://sites.google.com/site/moashowmanyfish/why-are-water-changes-necessary

The above link essentially states that 1) not all waste products can be handled by live plants or filters, and 2) that partial water changes do definitely limit the amount of waste that can be in a given aquarium. Hopefully this post will help answer any questions that new aquarists might have about water changes in general.

MOA

tetra colorations‚and patterns.

Faraday — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 10:44:27 GMT

What are some of the most unique colorations and patterns in tetras? Do any of you keep them? I'm sure some of you do. I am looking for some great vibrant patters. Any responses would be helpful. Even if it's not that colorful‚ I'd be glad to see it. Post some pics of your tetras if you'd like.

A new tank, need some tips

Mcarpo13 — Tue, 08 Dec 2009 13:21:38 GMT

So, i have a 20 gallon with an archer fish and some gouramis, and a 10 gallon with danios and a frog. on Friday i am doing a big change and i need some help. I'm getting a 30 gallon and I'm changing all the stuff from the 20, into the 30, and the stuff from the 10, into the 20. here's what i have:

2 Air Pumps w/ tubing
2 Filters (i think a whisper and a whisper 10i)
2 Heaters (a 100 watt and another cheap one)
Gravel
Ornaments
Plenty of food

I know for sure that i need a new heater for the 30 gallon, but i don't know if the filter will work either. can anyone give me a list of supplies i may need that i missed along with suggestions on what brands to get that are affordable, thanks.

Heko fish keep dying!?

Tigress — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 11:17:09 GMT

I have my fish tank set up and it's a 55 gallon. I have a 10 gal. filter unit and a 40-60 gal. filter unit on it. I in this month and the end of Dec. have been buying .28cent Goldifh from Wal-Mart. I have so far bought 20 and as of right now 19 have died. I currently have 1 left and it has ick all over it. My water and decor is green. I do need to clean it. I have a few different kinds. I only used one kind and it seems just about a day or so after 1 or 2 of my fish suddenly died. Anyone else ever had this kind of a problem? How can I keep any fish ever if all they do is die? Need help and am so frustrated.

20 gall tank ( freshwater)

angelfish_32 — Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:41:37 GMT

We have a tank at local libary and just wanted to see what fish would work with following fish, we have a mickey mouse platy , couple of tetras , and a cory cat , and the pleco ! What would be a good fish just make the tank pop out with color and the fish would be great !

FishChannel Forums / Freshwater Forums / A Place for Beginners

What fish can I put in a 5 gallon tank?

Your New Aquarium

To cover or not to cover

Water Question

Green Cloudy water

I need help

gold fish tank mates

molly fry

Advice on water testing

Tank Backgrounds

Heater for 125 gal

Lethargic Black Moor

Is this good enough?

Some Questions

Choosing Saltwater Fish

Newbie with Questions

Annoying Green Water

Help with my annoying problem

quaratine thank

I've got a few questions about a new tank

Switching Tanks

Office Tank

tank mates

breeding tank

Guppy fry

Am I done Cycling yet?!??

LEAKING **HURRY PLEASE HELP!!**

What type of filter insert should I buy

nitrite

New Aquarists, This One is Yours!

water clarity

Tankmates for new tank

Water Change Spreadsheet

Emerald Cory babies

Light goes off

Why Water Changes: The Long Answer

tetra colorations‚and patterns.

A new tank, need some tips

Heko fish keep dying!?

20 gall tank ( freshwater)

LEAKING HURRY PLEASE HELP!!