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Filter help? Expand / Collapse
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Posted 6/30/2008 5:24:45 PM
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I have a brand new 75 gallon tank and i am looking to buy a filter but there are so many choices that i don't know what to buy. Could you give me some suggestions of a filter set up big enough for a 75 gallon tank, 6 to 10 medium African cichlids, about 4 to 7 plants, and within a budget of 60$.and i do have room for a canister filter but i cant find one in the size i need or 60$ Thanks
Post #150034
Posted 6/30/2008 5:46:04 PM
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What are you going to have for fish (not just species, but their numbers as well)? That will help give us an idea of how much filtration you will be needed. Also, does the stand have room for a sump or canister filter in it?

.
Post #150037
Posted 7/3/2008 4:59:36 PM
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If you want a cheap canister filter go to big al's online and look for the penn plax canister its a lil higher than your budget but it would probably do much better than anything you can find that cheap. I just bought one but i havent installed it yet.
Post #150144
Posted 7/16/2008 12:25:21 PM


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an Emperor 400 model will cover it.  it runs less than 60 bucks and has two bio wheels.  this is a hang on the aquarium model.

The filter has a flow rate of 400 gph and is recommended for aquariums up to 80 gallons. It includes two BIO-wheels, two refillable media containers, and two cartridges.

this link will help you see what i am talking about.

http://www.aquariumguys.com/emperorpower.html

JOHN CHAMPAGNE

55gallon/4wpg t05/pressurized Co2/moderately planted 7 goldbarbs,10 olive nerite snails,1 ottos, 4 green cories, 4 amano shrimp and 6 cardinal tetras, 3 swordtail, 4 ember tetra, 2 platy, 5 pentazona barb, 3 Candy stripe pencil fish.

  

Post #150805
Posted 7/16/2008 7:54:29 PM


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One important consideration is that African Cichlids and plants typically don't mix well (there exceptions, of course).

As to business, filters are as much about functionality as they are about preference. For instance, I only (except in rare cases) use undergravel filters with powerheads, but many people absolutely hate UGFs. As such, you really should consider what your needs are and what it is that you want most.

Filter Guide

Sponge Filter

Description:

A small box-shaped container that holds a sponge and sometimes a chemical purifier. It is often powered by an air stone and fits inside the aquarium.

Advantages:

These filters are typically inexpensive, do not take up much space, and are easy to set up.

Disadvantages:

Since these filters are so small, they are not practical for aquariums larger than ten gallons. Also, models that require chemical purifiers will need new activated carbon or zeolite every two weeks and the air stones that power the filters will have to be changed at least once a month.

Mechanical Fast Filter

Description:

These filters consist of a canister that can be filled with biological medium or chemical purifiers connected to a water pump. Additionally, the canister is sometimes covered with sponge. This filter fits inside the aquarium.

Advantages:

Since these filters use water pumps as opposed to air stones, they do not have as many items that need to be replaced. Since a water pump is used, these filters can be used in larger aquariums than sponge filters--up to 30 gallons. As with sponge filters, mechanical fast filters are simple to install and comparatively inexpensive.

Disadvantages:

Because the surface area of the canister is relatively small, these filters can clog easily and the performance of the filter will diminish proportionately. Types that require chemical purifiers will need replacement purifiers every two weeks.

Undergravel Filter (UGF)

Description:

A grid that is placed under the gravel with one or more uplift tubes that rise out of it. Air stones or powerhead water pumps are used to pull water through the grid and up through the uplift tubes. Models that use air stones often make use of carbon or zeolite cartridges that fit inside the elbow that connects the air line with the uplift tube. UGFs can be made for almost any size of aquarium.

Advantages:

The undergravel filter usually provides a large surface area of medium and thus does not easily clog. Also, when used with powerheads instead of air stones, the aerobic filtration potential of the filter improves dramatically and the use of chemical purifiers may not be necessary to reach your stocking goal. This cuts down on the cost of maintaining the filter as you will not need cartridges or air stones.

Disadvantages:

While the initial expense is not too high when powered by air stones, undergravel filters that utilize one or more powerheads can have a high start-up cost. On the other hand, air stone-powered UGFs have a high maintenance cost due to the air stones and cartridges they use. Furthermore, undergravel filters are very much biological filters and thus require a decent amount of maturation time and a good understanding of biological processes on the part of the owner.

Power Filter

Description:

A box with an internal water pump that hangs on the outside of the aquarium and pushes the water through one or more filter inserts and often uses activated carbon. Power filters are available for most common aquarium sizes.

Advantages:

These filters are relatively simple in design and function. They are also very efficient due to the chemical purification and the water pump they possess. These filters are ideal for beginners because they have virtually no maturation time (with regard to chemical purification, biological maturation can take a few months) and can handle many of the errors a novice might make.

Disadvantages:

These filters are often both initially expensive (compared to some of the previous filters) and expensive to maintain because of the carbon inserts. Additionally, power filters may clog if the amount of water contaminants is high.

Canister Filter

Description:

A large canister with a water pump connected to the aquarium by a system of hoses. These filters may use biological mediums like ceramic tubes and sponge, chemical purifiers such as activated carbon, or a combination of biological mediums and chemical purifiers. Only practical for medium and large aquariums (50+ gallons).

Advantages:

Since it is not directly connected to the aquarium, it is easy to hide and disguise. Also, models that do not require chemical purifiers can go more than a month without cleaning.

Disadvantages:

Canister filters can be cumbersome because of their many hoses, can be difficult to clean, are expensive, and have a comparatively small turnover (do not cyle the water as many times per hour as some of the other filters). In addition, models that use chemical purifiers will need replacement activated carbon or zeolite every couple of weeks.

Trickle Filter

Description:

Basically a canister filter that introduces more oxygen into the system by causing the water to flow through a spillway before entering the canister. As with canister filters, these filters are not practical for small aquariums.

Advantages:

More efficient than canister filters, trickle filters are typically the only suitable option for very large aquariums and, due to their increased oxygen content, are especially beneficial to brackish water fish as they do not compete as much with the fish for oxygen.

Disadvantages:

The trickle filter is expensive and complicated. Best left to the experienced, dedicated aquarist.

Diatom Filter

Description:

A large canister with a water pump that hangs on the outside of the aquarium. Uses a circular fiber floss or micro-fiber insert.

Advantages:

Rids water of contaminants quickly.

Disadvantages:

As this filter can clog easily, it is not practical as the primary filter. It is also expensive.

Plenum

Description:

A grid that is placed beneath the aquarium substrate. It works by allowing a small amount of water to flow through the substrate in such a way that wastes are broken down into nitrate and a fair amount of nitrate is denitrified. As this filter has no power source of its own, it must be combined with powerful circulation pumps that provide a turnover of at least 10 cycles per hour. The plenum is essentially a device that encourages residual flow.

Advantages:

A very simple design that is both easy to maintain and comparatively inexpensive.

Disadvantages:

Since the plenum works by creating residual flow, you typically should not house too many fish in an aquarium that uses one. In addition, the plenum requires an intricate understanding of biological processes and takes a long time to mature.

UV Sterilizer

Description:

A tube containing a UV bulb or bulbs through which aquarium water is forced. It is designed to kill pathogens by exposing them to deadly levels of ultraviolet light.

Advantages:

Kills a great number of water born diseases and helps the water from becoming clouded due to bacteria or other microbes.

Disadvantages:

As exposing the fish to specific wavelengths of UV light can kill them, UV sterilizers do not shine directly into the aquarium. This means that disease organisms can still exist in the aquarium, just not in the UV sterilizer.

General Filter Guidelines

Do not combine filters that operate at different levels of the aquarium as they will compete with each other.

Clean filters (not with hot water or chemicals) that become clogged as soon as possible to prevent nitrogen compound build-up.

Look for filters that have a high turnover rate as these are often the most efficient ones.

Choosing filters that do not use chemical purifiers cuts maintenance costs but also decreases biological load adaptability. As such, if you want a comparable bioload capacity but do not want the extra expense of chemical purifiers, buy a filter that is a size or two larger than what is recommended for your aquarium and does not require chemical purifiers.

Look for filters that have at least a one year warranty to avoid replacing the filter too often.

Shop around and look at all your possibilities. This way, you have a better chance of finding a filter that fits both your budget and aquarium stocking goals.

Purchase filters that have good quality. Such units may be expensive, but they are worth it in the long run.



Check Out the Freshwater Stocking Guide: http://board.fishchannel.com/Topic132702-5-1.aspx

MOA's: How Many Fish: http://sites.google.com/site/moashowmanyfish/

Post #150818
Posted 7/19/2008 4:00:41 PM


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Not to be discouraging but when you move up in tank size, appropriate accessories start to get pricey. There are some things you can skimp on & get away but filtration (the heart of your system) shouldn't be one of them. I understand the financial constraints & your hurry to get started yesterday. Trust me, you don't want a 'cheap' filter. It might seem like a bargain at first look but it'll cost you more in time & heartache.            One of the lesser priced canister filters from a quality mfgr. is http://www.petsolutions.com/Cascade-1000-Canister-Filter+I30101594+C40003142.aspx . HOB's are generally less expensive than 'cans' but again quality is important. http://www.petsolutions.com/AquaClear-110-Power-Filter+I15510620+C22.aspx    or   http://www.petsolutions.com/Emperor-400-Power-Filter+I47464002+C101835.aspx .  As time progresses & finances increase you can add to & upgrade your filtration system.  "T"


125gl TENECOR F/W

A/C500, Rena XP3, Rena XP4
2 MaxiJet 1200,2 Luft7.0,2 RenaCal 200w                'O' 12", CK 11", RCK 8", 2 Raphael Cat's 6/9 "
"Git In Where U Fit In"

Post #150971
Posted 7/23/2008 6:25:33 AM
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Ok so I just heard about this Zero Water Exchange filter system from Hiq.  I was reading up about it online. 

http://www.hiq-usa.com/

What do you guys think about that?

-Jamie

Post #151272
Posted 7/23/2008 9:10:59 AM


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I never trust products with a remaining waste index over 300 (RWI = 100 x Days Between Cleanings / Percentage Removed) for two important reasons:

  1. These types of products rely on everything going right. Subsequently, if you mess up on maintenance, then you could wind up with a lot of dead fish. Additionally, they also rely on complete aquarist incompetence or on aquarist prowess.
  2. If the remaining waste index is above 300, then other wastes (besides the N-compounds) will accumulate and potentially cause problems.

In short, going without water changes is kinda like continuously filling a ballon with air but hoping that it won't pop. The sad reality in most cases, however, is that something has to give sometime.

Check Out the Freshwater Stocking Guide: http://board.fishchannel.com/Topic132702-5-1.aspx

MOA's: How Many Fish: http://sites.google.com/site/moashowmanyfish/

Post #151288
Posted 7/23/2008 11:06:05 AM


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Actually, I've just gotten done testing it and writing a review for my column "In The Fishroom" in FAMA. I was skeptical about it -- actually about anything that says you don't have to do water changes -- but this Hi-Q system really works. I have it set up on a 40 gallon breeder tank, with about 2" of gravel, and a single T5 lamp and lots of plants. I tested the water every couple of days initially, and then every week and I've had it set up over three months. There was never any ammonia or nitrite (I used Hi-Q's product that is essentially a bacteria starter powder), and nitrates have been maintained in the 65 -- 75 range. I know that some of you will say that the nitrates are too high, but I don't think so. The fish have been fine, probably have 25 -- 30 fish in the tank, and the plants are growing great.

The system is very interesting. It consists of a reverse flow UG filter, that drives the tank water down through two columns with a powerhead inside of each column. The columns have regular plastic" bioballs", but the center of each is hard sponge. Last May I had the opportunity to meet the guy who invented the system at the InterZoo in Germany. What is going on, I think, is essentially what happens inside live rock in a marine tank -- there are bacteria that prefer an anoxic or anaerobic environment, and they break down nitrates into nitrogen gas, which then just dissipates at the water surface.

The Hi-Q system, as well as a couple of other producst that I am also testing for my FAMA column, come to the hobby from the commercial fish farming industry. Just as we got a whole set of products 15 years ago, or more, from the sewage treatment industry, so are we now getting this technology transfer from the commercial aquaculture industry. For some reason the "holy grail" for fishkeeping seems to be zero water changes -- I found it difficult to understand at first, but most hobbyists don't even want to get their hands wet.

The Hi-Q system definitely works. Combined like I have it with a heavily planted tank, and you will have very little maintenance at all. I must confess, however, that I am eventually going to do a water change.

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Local Fish Stores -- "The Heart of the Hobby"  

Post #151307
Posted 7/23/2008 12:39:49 PM


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I'm not saying that the N-compounds will rise--anaerobic filters/silent cycles have been tested and tried for the last half a century and their effect with regard to N-compounds is undeniable--I'm saying that there are wastes that there aren't test kits for that an aquarist has to consider. The effect of many of these "hidden" chemicals is still unknown over long periods of time and thus it is safer to do water changes. Like I said, if you use anerabic or silent filtration, then your RWI shouldn't exceed 300. This is the equivalent of 10% once a month. It doesn't have to be huge or exhaustive, just keep the "hidden" chemicals in check. If you are still opposed to water changes, despite that 10% once a month isn't that hard, at least get some activated carbon and change it every two weeks.

I am completely amazed that people who call themselves dedicated aquarists are even trying to get away with the least possible effort. When keeping fish, we shouldn't be asking ourselves, "What can we get away with." Instead, we should always keep the question of what is best for the fish at the forefront of our decisions.

OK, now I'll get off my soapbox. This is one subject that really depends on your personal views and what you deem a successful aquarium to be. Sorry about going on so long about it.

Check Out the Freshwater Stocking Guide: http://board.fishchannel.com/Topic132702-5-1.aspx

MOA's: How Many Fish: http://sites.google.com/site/moashowmanyfish/

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