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Fluval Spec Expand / Collapse
Posted 11/8/2012 8:23:47 PM
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Hello everyone!

After having such a positive experience with the Fluval Spec, I decided I would share with all of you in hopes that you will find some of this information helpful. I kind of talk a lot at first, if you're only interested in the Fluval Spec I suggest you skip a few paragraphs. Or go straight to the bottom for my condensed pros and cons list.

When I moved to my new one bedroom apartment for my second year of University, I had big plans for an aquarium. My summer vacation was spent planning exactly what products, fish, plants, and more that I would get. I had an entire list of Universal Price Codes so that I could be sure I was getting exactly what I wanted.

I finally got settled in and decided that it was time to go to the local PetSmart to pick up my tank and stand. At the time I hadn't realized that I had come down with mono and had a raging fever. I was absolutely delirious when I went into the store. Not thinking about the size of my apartment or car I picked out a beautiful 56 gallon Marineland tank and stand ensemble. I managed to just squeeze the tank into my backseat but couldn't fit the stand in anywhere. I had to call a taxi van to come get it. That should have been my first hint that maybe, just maybe, that tank was too large.

By the time the tank was home my fever had cooled and I was thinking clearly again. The mammoth stood in the corner of my living room and even though I was so excited to have it I realized that I needed something smaller.

I waited a number of weeks after the Marineland aquarium debacle to get a new, smaller tank (mainly because I was embarrassed about the scene that I had caused at PetSmart). After doing my research I became quite interested in the Fluval Spec 5 gallon aquarium. Other tanks that were in the running were:
Fluval EBI Nano Shrimp Habitat - 7.9 gallons
Fluval Edge - 6 gallons
Fluval Chi - 6.6 gallons
Fluval Flora - 7.9 gallons

So why did I choose the smallest of those tanks if I had originally wanted to have a big 56 gallon tank? Wouldn't it make sense to get the Fluval EBI or Flora since they had the largest capacity?

One of the greatest parts about the Fluval Spec is the over-sized biological filtration. This is something that all of the other aquariums were lacking. Their filtration systems were all small and barely large enough (in my opinion) for the size of the tanks that they were supporting. The filter size was definitely one of the top reasons why I chose the Fluval Spec. Another point about the filter is that it leaves the tank with a very unobstructed view. There are no tubes or distractions from the rest of the tank. I did run into a quick problem concerning the filter that I noticed on a few discussion boards other people had been having problems with as well. The submersible pump is very difficult to get inside... at first. There is a divider between the filter media and the pump and the space where the pump is supposed to go is almost the exact size of the pump. Also you need to take the cord into consideration because that is what was making it so difficult to get it into place. What I did was run the cord underneath the divider and have it come up and out the side where the filter media is. This allowed the extra space to get the pump down inside and when the pump would shift and not go down straight one little tug on the cord would even everything out. However: I do recommend that you consider what kind of fish you are going to keep in the tank before putting the pump in. The flow control is on the pump itself and it is very difficult to remove once it is inside. I have mine on full blast and it does process a lot of water.

In the section where the pump is submersed there is a lot of what I consider wasted space. It seems as though there is just empty water in this section of the filter. What I am planning on doing in the near future is to fill that empty space with Marineland Bio-Filter Balls. This way there is more space for the beneficial bacteria to grow. I also considered putting an airstone inside to increase the amount of dissolved oxygen in the tank but it seemed like an impractical place to put it. Many internet sources claim to place the heater inside this space so that it is hidden behind the frosted glass and out of view. I tried this myself; however, I don't think that the temperature is evenly distributed this way. For the short time that my heater was in there I didn't seem to have any problems with even temperature, but I still felt uncomfortable with it. Also, the suctions cups that hold the heater onto the glass would not stick well to the frosted glass. This may have just been because of the particular brand that I bought. Other internet reviews claim to not have problems with this. I would also suggest that you pick a fully submersible heater if you try this method because with the lid on there isn't much space for the top of the heater to protrude from the water line.

Speaking of the lid I didn't like it at all. In an unheated, unplanted tank I'm sure it works great, but for my purposes it just wasn't what I wanted. It makes it difficult to put a heater in, the small opening makes it difficult for light to get to the plants, and in my case my cat just loved to stick her arm inside. My solution? A cheap piece of plexiglass cut to size and with an opening for the heater. My cat can no longer get her paws inside and the light travels through more easily. One thing to note if making your own lid, make sure that there are places for the evaporation to escape or else the light will be slightly less. Not enough to make a huge difference, but as you will read later, for delicate plants this makes all the difference.

One more word about the filter and then we can get into some of the fun discussions like aquascaping and fish stocking. The nozzle that pumps the water back into the aquarium is one of my favorite features. It has a goose neck so you can control the direction of water. For my purposes I wanted to ensure that there was a lot of dissolved oxygen in the water for my fish so I pointed it all the way up so that it would create maximum surface disturbance. It seems to work very well. Also, if you have a species that prefers slower moving water (such as a Betta) you can point it at the glass so there is no danger of your fish getting carried away by the current.

Harscape of the Fluval Spec

Don't waste too much space hardscaping. Get your substrate in and some rocks and/or driftwood. In my case I took three flat, grey rocks about the size of my palm and put one in the foreground on the far right and then put the other two one on top of the other at the far left in the back ground. In the middle I have a small, curvy piece of driftwood with lots of hiding spaces and holes. Remember that it is a small and very narrow aquarium. If you are planning on planting it so not waste too much space on the hardscape.

Aquascaping the Fluval Spec

Many aquarists argue over the LED lighting system and whether or not it is sufficient for growing plants. Most claim it to be in the low to moderate range of light. I chose to ignore the arguments and try for myself to see what type of plants would grow. I was determined to have Baby Dwarf Tears (HC), which is a moderate to mostly high light plant. With the removal of the stock lid, I have found that my tank appears brighter and more light is reaching my plants. For maximum light exposure I also remove my DIY lid while I am home to supervise my cat. Though my Dwarf Baby Tears are not growing quickly, they are still growing. They are a lovely bright green and taking their time to spread across the tank floor. Do not feel limited by the lighting as to what plants you can have. It may take a little extra work, which I will get into later, but it can be done!

Don't skimp on the essentials. Buy the Fluval Stratum or other great plant substrate. This is very important. You want to give your plants the best possible chance to thrive in your aquarium.

I considered a CO2 system, but I thought that for such a small aquarium (and the stocking of it that I will get into soon) it was unnecessary. In a tank so small liquid CO2 should suffice if stocking lightly. If stocking heavily with little plant life it is probably unnecessary, though I do still supplement mine for optimal plant growth because my tank has both lots of plants and lots of fish.

Make sure to dose the water with Seachem Flourite to ensure that your plants receive all of the essential nutrients required for them to grow.

The plants that I used to do the aquascape are:
- Anubias Lanceolota in the right corner background. This plant can get tall so I made sure to remove the tall pieces. I have this plant to hide my heater and it reaches all the way up to the surface. My Betta loves to hang out in it and even built a bubble nest inside the large leaves.
- Ludwigia Mullertii (small) in front of the Anubia Lanceolota to create a thick bushy forest-like appearance.
- Cryptocoryne Parva along 3/5 of the background (around the middle behind the driftwood). This is a great small plant usually used as a foreground plant. I spaced it out to draw the eye away from the cluster of plants on the far right and fill in the empty space in the middle.
- Hemianthus Callitrichoides currently spreading across the foreground.
- Aegagropila Linnaei are on top of two rocks and between those two rocks an driftwood. They are great, easy plants to take care of. They help with keeping the water conditions ideal.

I would like to add an Anubias Pygmy Nana in front of the Ludwigia Mullertii to hid the stems a little and add to the whole bushy, thick look that I have going.

Stocking the Fluval Spec

I am going to assume that everyone reading this has at least a basic understanding of the nitrogen cycle for simplicity. Overstocking your aquarium can be done but it is difficult to maintain. However, the one-inch-of-fish-per-gallon rule isn't a rule at all.

I began by planting my tank and allowing it to run for one week without any fish. I used Seachem Flourite and API CO2 Plant Booster to ensure that the plants were receiving sufficient nutrients.

Each day I also added the recommended dose of Seachem Stability. This product is amazing. It worked fantastically. I have read a lot of information from internet posters who claim that it "skips" the cycling process. I disagree with this statement. I believe that it gives your aquarium an extra boost so that when you add fish it is more ready for the bio-load than by simply adding fish. Also, when used in conjunction with Seachem Prime, the harmful ammonia is neutralized and made less toxic so you aren't exposing your fish to the dangers of ammonia poisoning. Though I used Seachem Stability and Prime to start my aquarium, and fully believe in its effectiveness I will always recommend the proper cycling technique and prefer the fish-less cycling technique to establish the aquarium.

I waited several weeks and allowed my plants to grow. With that out of the way, the first fish that I added was a Betta Splendens. I did partial water changes everyday and used Prime to treat the water before putting it into the tank and then put Stability directly into the filter where most of the bacteria live.

Why is a Betta a good choice for the Fluval Spec? Contrary to popular belief, Bettas do not do betta (sorry for the pun) in a bowl. They need filtration, heat, and room to swim. Also, because they are a labyrinth fish they are able to breathe air from the surface instead of relying solely on dissolved oxygen. In this case, if you are planning on housing one Betta, lower the filter nozzle and direct it toward the glass. Also, lower the pump's flow to the lowest possible setting. This will ensure no strong currents for your slow moving fish. Bettas prefer calm water. I also warn you that if your Betta is anything like mine he will fall in love with the filter nozzle and build it a bubble nest and court it all day--almost to the point of being obsessive compulsive about it.

My Betta (Klaus) was so content in his new home that in less than a week he built a huge bubble nest in the right hand corner between the heater, Anubias Lanceolota and the intake of the filter. The filter will not suck down the bubble nest. He loves this corner and spends most of his days there tending to his nest and courting the filter nozzle.

The second resident that I added were shrimp. I began with five Ghost Shrimp and then also added an Amano Shrimp as well. The Ghost Shrimp are kind of ugly in comparison with the Amano Shrimp and I was worried that because of their clear color they would not stand out. However, on the dark Fluval Stratum substrate they stand out wonderfully. They are in there to add a little bit of interest and to clean up after my fussy Betta who will eat some food then spit the others out and swim back to the top to get more. They are great cleaners. The floor of my tank is spotless. They seem happy, they are molting and breeding. I don't have any algae problems but I suspect that with the added nutrients, long lighting periods and slightly over-stocked tank that I will notice a bit of algae growth eventually so I got the Amano Shrimp while my local pet store had some. They has one left, which was perfect because it is a small tank. I find the Amano shrimp much nicer looking and more active/interesting than the Ghost Shrimp.

Why is the Fluval Spec a great aquarium for Shrimp? It has a small size, soft filter intake and it is long, which gives them plenty of space to crawl around.

Next came the seven Neon Tetras. This is my first aquarium sin. I know that Neon Tetras should not be housed in anything less than 10 gallons at the minimum but I couldn't help myself. They were the perfect compliment to my red Betta who is now my center-piece fish. They swim around the middle away from the shrimp and the Betta and are very bright and happy. I planted the tank so that they had plenty of swimming space and plenty of plant cover. I also changed the filter nozzle so that there was a strong current for them to swim into (highly suggested). Instead of swimming back and forth through the areas with a low current they choose to swim toward the fast current and almost stay in place. The tank is great because in some areas the current is fast, which the Neon Tetras like but it is also slow in some areas like in front of the filter intake where my Betta likes to hang out.

I also added one Mystery Snail. I wanted Zebra Nerite Snails but they all suddenly died at the pet store. The Mystery Snail is another member of my algae fighting team. Again, I have not experienced any algae but I'd rather have a prevention in place before it becomes a problem.

As you can see, my 5 gallon tank is technically overstocked by many standards. It has fifteen residents but my parameters all remain ideal. I have a rigorous maintenance routine that I believe is the reason why my tank is successful

To sum up my aquarium residents:
- 1 Male Betta
- 5 Ghost Shrimp (could be more since they are happily breeding)
- 1 Amano Shrimp
- 1 Mystery Snail
- 7 Neon Tetras
* And the water parameters are all ideal.

Other possible fish include:
- White Cloud Mountain Minnows
- Guppies*
- Platies*
- Nerite Snails
- Assassin Snail**
- Endler's Livebearers*
- Other Shrimp varieties
- Killifish***
- Harlequin Rasboras****

The Fluvals Spec box also suggests fish like Tiger Barbs, Goldfish and Danios. Danios may be okay, though they can get to be a fair size. However, Tiger Barbs and Goldfish have too much mass to be in an aquarium this size.

* Watch out for livebearers as they have more mass, which results in more of a bioload. Also, if you have ever had Platies you know how much they poop.
**Assassin Snails will readily breed in a tank environment. Be prepared to deal with the offspring.
*** Killifish are great because they are so small; however, they have very short lifespans so don’t get too attached.
**** Harlequin Rasboras do better in a 10 gallon set up, similar to the Neon Tetras. Make sure that if you attempt this you give them a strong current to exercise in, lots of open spaces to swim (don’t get too crazy with the aquascape), and plenty of water changes to keep them happy.

The best fish for this setup is the White Cloud Mountain Minnow. Why? Because they can be kept in small aquariums with no heating so no modification to the lid is necessary.

Bettas are a close second, but require heaters.

Why My Stock Works

My tank is overstocked, I know. So why do my parameters remain ideal? Because I started with plants, allowed them to grow and thrive, used the proper additives to ensure the aquarium would be ready for residents and then added those residents slowly. Do not skip the cycling process with this tank.

With this many inhabitants my tank’s Bioload is at its maximum capacity. The wonderful oversized filter media allows for a slightly larger load. But Bioload isn’t the only thing to look at. The amount of dissolved oxygen in the water that allows your fish to breath is also very important.

Bettas have an organ called a labyrinth, which allows them to breath air directly from the surface. This means that they do not take as much oxygen from the aquarium’s other inhabitants. Kind of like the Betta, the Mystery Snail breaths air primarily from the surface. Therefore, it is in your aquarium without taking any oxygen.

The shrimp get their oxygen from the water, but they are so small that it isn’t even noticeable. This leaves the Neon Tetras. They do require dissolved oxygen and in their home region the dissolved oxygen is provided by the turbulent rivers. This is why you see Neon Tetras swimming in strong currents—they love it! This is also why my tank works because the filter nozzle allows me to create lots of surface disturbance and water currents. Please note that Bettas like slow-moving water; however, by the intake of my filter (of all places) there seems to be a very slow-moving current where he likes to hang out. Also, my tall, broad-leafed plants are in that corner and give him a place to rest.

The plants in the tank also provide oxygen. Do not assume that by having plants you are giving your fish adequate oxygen. At night plants stop producing oxygen and begin absorbing it. If you notice your fish swimming near the top of the tank at lights out you need to provide more dissolved oxygen. If they are happily swimming around the middle to lower regions you have sufficient levels. Bettas are exempt from this because they prefer the top regions of the tank. Also, if you can see teeny tiny bubbles in your water (especially if they are being pushed down by the filter nozzle) you probably have sufficient amounts of dissolved oxygen. In my tank, I have plenty. My fish are happy and never gasping for air.

Lots of plants are another key factor to my tank’s success. I heavily planted my tank. The more plants that I introduce with the beneficial bacteria on their surfaces the better and their water-quality enhancing powers are unbelievable. I think back to the days when I had an aquarium without live plants and trust me, it makes a huge difference in appearance and water quality.

My tank works because I haven’t skimped on anything. I got the best substrate, all the best additives etc. For a small tank you oddly either have to go big or go home. Don’t waste your time by not getting all of the good products. I love the Seachem products and swear by them. They have made all the difference in my aquarium.

The shrimp are fantastic cleaners. My Betta isn’t the smartest, or fastest fish in the world so when he misses his pellets (even if I feed them one-by-one) the shrimp are waiting greedily to get their fill.

I modified things so that they worked for me. Like the lid. It didn’t do what I wanted so I threw it out and made something that worked for me. I need to give this aquarium the best possible chances.

Typically six Neon Tetras is the minimum that you should keep in a group so I decided to get seven just to make them that much comfier and to avoid any fin nippiness since they tend to be happier in a larger group. They only nipped at my Betta’s tail once and that was the night that they came home from the local fish store and I’m assuming that is because they were probably hungry and those long red fins just looked so delicious. Now that they are being fed on a regular schedule I have no problems with them nipping.

The overstocked tank helps to add CO2 to the water. It is unlikely that the fish in your aquarium will provide enough CO2 to sustain your plants. Unless you have a lot of fish and very little plant life supplementation is required. Either you can get a CO2 system (there is a great mini system by Fluval that I looked at getting), make a DIY CO2 system, or provide liquid CO2. All seem to work well. I recommend a CO2 system if you tank is heavily planted because liquid supplementation is hard to dose for such a small aquarium and it can become very expensive after a while.

To Sum Up

1. The filtration system is amazing. If you go through the cycling process correctly your tank will have plenty of beneficial bacteria to support the aquatic life.
2. Along with the filter, the filter nozzle is great. You can choose the direction of flow, which is much different than the waterfall effect that most hang on the back filters have. I like that I can make a lot of surface disturbance to increase the dissolved oxygen in my tank.
3. The filtration system is hidden behind frosted glass so that it does not obstruct your view of the tank.
4. The LED lighting system is much better than I expected. I didn’t think I would be able to grow Dwarf Baby Tears (HC), but they are happily growing. I will admit that they are growing slightly more upward, which is typical of lower lighting system, but they are also spreading width-wise so they may just require more pruning.
5. The lighting system also provides a nighttime option that is a neat feature to have.
6. Great for small species of fish. It is a very long tank for its small capacity, which provides plenty of swimming room for your fish.
7. It is compact and looks great almost anywhere.
8. Maintenance is extremely easy. I just take two 2 liter ice cream bucket worth of water out each day and replace it. I’m putting a little more effort into it because I stocked heavily and quickly so weekly changes will probably be good for you if you stock lightly and slowly.

1. There is no heater included. Not only that but there is no place to put a heater. Some people have had success with putting the heater in where the pump is but I had a hard time getting the suction cups to stick to the frosted glass. Also, the way the lid is doesn’t allow for the top of the heater to be exposed so if you do it this way you will either have to find a submersible heater, take off the lid, or make a DIY lid like I did.
2. Speaking about the lid, it’s terrible and cheap. The plastic isn’t clear so the light doesn’t get through it as well. If you don’t have a planted or heated tank and you do not have a cat, then the lid is fine.
3. When initially putting in the pump put the cord through the bottom of the compartment that holds the filter media. This way there is no harsh bend and your pump isn’t wedged in quite as tightly. Oh, and unless there is some trick that I haven’t figured out yet don’t expect to get your pump back out. It’s in there good. Make sure to adjust the flow rate before you put it in.
4. The compartment where the pump is seems to be just a lot of dad space. This is why I would like to get some Marineland Bio-Balls to add more surface area for bacteria to grow.
Post #236398
Posted 11/9/2012 11:55:45 AM
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first you are correct in that you talk A LOT!!!!!!.but thats O K as far as i'm concerned maybe cause i have 7 kid's and my 12yr old girl and 7yr old son do the same thing!!second Welcome allways good to have more people here.third i would have stayed with the 56gal tank as much as you seem to like fish.and lastly compared to me you are NOT overstocked as much as you think.my "TAG" name on all the web sites i'm on is "OVERSTOCKED"!!!! i currently have 2 of 3 tanks running.a 55gal and a 20gal.my 40gal is stored in the garage cause my sister-in-law is moving in my basement.both the 55gal and 20gal are heavly planted.let me say first that i have been doing the fish thing for 50+yrs and never suggest that ANYONE STOCK A TANK AS I DO.my 55gal has 2 marineland c-220 cannisters running it,gets 25% water changes every week without fail,and the only additives i use are excel and flourish every other day.the 55 has approx 45 plants,approx 450 fish/shrimp and assasin snails(to keep the unwanted ones under control,they do a great job of it).my water tests are allways great before and after a water change,they never change!!!the 20 gal runs on a 400 bio-wheel filter gets the same water changes and the same dose of additives.it has approx 8 plants,a blue lobster(about 7inch long,over 4yrs old),guppies and neons.i hope you will post some photos of your tank when you can.i am having computer trouble and haven't been able to but will soon as i can
Post #236408
Posted 11/15/2012 4:21:47 PM

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what do you think about the Fluval Flora??
I just figured out that the reason I hate the winter is the lack of color every where. I recently got attracted to planted takes with lush green summer like colors. I just started a 55 gal. planted tank but I am wanting to start a small planted tank to put by my lay-z-boy so I can soak up the summer like colors to help me beat the winter time blues. Trying to decide if I want the Flora, or just use a 10 gal tank and go the do it yourself route??

Tanks a lot
Post #236483
Posted 1/1/2013 5:58:48 PM
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[quote] Deluxechuck (11/15/2012)
what do you think about the Fluval Flora??
I just figured out that the reason I hate the winter is the lack of color every where. I recently got attracted to planted takes with lush green summer like colors. I just started a 55 gal. planted tank but I am wanting to start a small planted tank to put by my lay-z-boy so I can soak up the summer like colors to help me beat the winter time blues. Trying to decide if I want the Flora, or just use a 10 gal tank and go the do it yourself route??

Tanks a lot
Chuck [/quote]

Hi Chuck,

Sorry it took me so long to respond! I did do some research into the Fluval Floras because, though I love my spec, I want to focus more on the plants and after a few months I've noticed that the lighting on the Spec just isn't cutting it.

So I have been looking into other options including the Fluval Flora. A lot of the reviews on YouTube aren't that great, which I was actually really surprised by. I like the size and shape of the Flora but apparently the lighting could be better, and I've heard some not-so-nice things about the CO2 injection system. I have even read about someone needing to use three of the lighting systems to get the desired lighting to grow HC.As far as the CO2 system goes, it is bulky in such a small tank and is a bit distracting. A DIY system may be a better option.

Personally, I like the Ecoxotic EcoPico. I just ordered it two days ago actually. The stock lighting is good, and for a mere $22 you can add on extra lighting. I've heard great things about plant growth in this tank using simple DIY CO2 systems. The possibilities for plant growth are pretty well unlimited. I don't recommend this tank if you're interested in any sort of schooling fish. The dimensions are 10" x 10" x 12", which doesn't allow for much swimming room, but I think the cube shape will allow for a really interesting scape, sort of like those at the aquascaping competitions in Hanover. I plan on keeping one Betta and a few shrimp. Then having the Spec for the schooling fish since the length 17" x 6" x 10" allows for more horizontal swimming. But if you're looking for a plant-oriented desktop aquarium, look into the EcoPico. I think it has a little more going for it compared to the Flora.

EcoPico Video
Post #237161
Posted 1/1/2013 6:14:34 PM
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I just looked up the Fluval Flora again for a price/lighting comparison. The price is the same, but the lighting is only 13 watts. At 7.9 gallons, that is less than 2 watts per gallon, which doesn't exactly meet the requirements of "medium lighting." You could probably grow nice low-medium light plants, but with those the CO2 is probably overkill. Now, if you bought an additional lamp for another $38, then your wattage is increased to 26 is around 3 watts per gallon, so you would just be breaching the "high light" category for some of the plants that would actually require the provided CO2 system.

The Ecoxotic EcoPico is smaller at only 5.1 gallons and only has a 9 watt light. However, the price is the same between $100-150, except that additional lighting is cheaper, and doesn't look as terrible if you want to add extra. Instead of having two big lamps like you would have to have on the Flora, you can have up to three discreet LED lights, which will triple your light output to 21 watts, which is roughly 4 watts per gallon, with a higher Kelvin rating (12000K) and more intense. An additional lamp for the Flora is almost equal to the price of two EcoPico LED lights. So for the same price you can triple, instead of double your watts per gallon.

Also, on the Flora if you plan to keep the lid on there isn't much space to allow for heater cords, etc. I'm sure this could be easily remedied but the EcoPico already had the space provided for cords in the back, while still having a lid (a must have for anyone like me who has a curious cat).

I do prefer the Flora filter to the EcoPico filter though. Especially if you plan on keeping any fish.
Post #237162
Posted 1/1/2013 6:19:21 PM
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Getting back on topic with the Fluval Spec, I apologize for the terrible picture. My camera wouldn't work so I took the photo with my laptop webcam. This was the Spec in it's infancy. It has since filled in, and I hope to post more pictures soon.

Post #237163
Posted 1/29/2013 1:09:59 PM



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Let's see more images of the Spec. How has it been running? What issues have arised with this system?

Post #237635
Posted 1/29/2013 1:39:50 PM

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Yeah, I am curious too. How did you handle the heating issue?

Post #237637
Posted 3/5/2013 9:58:48 AM
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How does it look now? Everything looks great but I would caution you that the tall plant in the back isn't a true aquatic plant. Eventually it will start to turn yellow and rot. It is a dracaena species. they do better when their roots are in water but the stalks are allowed to go out of the water. When they rot, the smell awful.

Green Cheek Amazon
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130 tarantulas
15 scorpions
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3 gallon-baby crayfish
7 gallon-Amano shrimp and dwarf platy
29 gallon-gold tetra and 2 small angels
125 gallon-tilapia buttikoferi and various catfish
5 & 10 gallon-empty for the moments
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